Vaikom Sree Mahadevar Temple
Location : Vaikom, Kottayam
South Kashi
Vaikom; near Kottayam in Kerala state is a ‘temple town’ – growing around its Shiva Temple – like its more famous counterpart the Guruvayur-town which also is centered on a temple. The Ashtami day (falls this year on November 17th) known as ‘Vaikath-ashtami celebrated in Vrishchikam month as per the Malayalam calendar is so famous and attracts huge crowds the small town can barely manage. The deity of this temple is that of Lord Shiva known as (Vaikom Perum-thri-kovil which is spread in 8 acres or land). This small temple has earned yet another name ‘Dakshina Kashi (the Southern Kashi) due to this deity.
Around the sanctum sanctorum
The temple which is built in the traditional style is faced eastwards east with two elephant shelters (ana-kottil) if front; the first one located by the flag-mast (kodi-maram), and the other one placed near the eastern spire (gopuram) about 500 feet distant from the temple. The golden flag-mast is 64 feet in height. By the south-eastern side and west there are four statues of ‘Aswattha dhruma’(old monks) carved in a praying posture. Panachikkal Bagavathi (deity of a goddess Vana-dhurga) is seated at the southern side of the temple. The Bhagavathi temple has only surrounding walls and no roof above.
Tapping woman power
A separate temple festival (chirappu) is celebrated to pay respect to the Bhagavathi in which thekku-purathu-pattu is performed. It is said that once upon a time there existed a dynasty by name Vadakkum-koor which continuously attacked Vaikom town-ship. To ward of the troubles created by Vadakkum-koor dynasty the Brahmins of the temple began to conduct this sort of performance art to please the goddess and seek her help in this regard. It is said the woman-power prevailed and the Brahmins had gained their sleep back!
A legend and a temple
Panachikkal Bhagavati is no ordinary goddess; as per legends she was ferocious yakshi (fairy) who lived nearby the temple and used to make the lone temple goers her sumptuous supper! Frightened by this evil spirit; people approached Ganapati (the elephant god); who entrusted the job of her execution to another woman spirit by name Thrishooli who always carried a three edged weapon (trident) along with her (and hence the name).
Thrishooli confronted the evil spirit with her trident and finally cut the yakshi in to three pieces! Her body fell on the southern gate of the temple, head to a place about six kilometer away (moothedathu-kavu) and legs at Kuttummel north of Vaikom. In all these three places there arose temples. It is also said that this yakshi was previously a very beautiful Demi-goddess (Gandharva-sundhari) who fell due to the curse of Agasthya; a great monk. By death at the hands of Thrishooli; the curse vanished and she got her godliness back; later became the protector of the devotees.
Once in twelve year song
The northern compound of the temple is a bit narrow yet enough to accommodate three or four elephants comfortably; it is here the vadakku-purathu-pattu (only once in 12 years) is performed which is intended for the prosperity of the countrymen. Temporary sheds are made for this grand function. This function has become one of the most popular performances of this temple.
Oottu-pura (dining hall) and a pond
It is on the northern-gate the ‘oottupura’ (temple dining hall) is located. Once upon a time royal feast was held on both floors; now this beautifully built structure stands frozen in a bygone good time. The temple pond (kshetra-kulam) is located at the northern side of oottupura. Its stagnant water has become and weed filled due to long neglect. The spires of the temple are not properly maintained and hence show signs of decadence; but at the time of temple festivals the exuberance of electric lamps make all these give them an imperial pride.
A stroll through the north gate
Old imperial structures can be seen by a walk through the northern gate where the kings built beautiful structures, gardens and ponds for their luxurious life. At present most of these structures are lying unused and unoccupied. In certain buildings the Devaswam (government department for the upkeep of temples) offices function leaving others empty.
The shree-kovil (sanctum sanctorum)
The Shree-kovil of this temple extra large (about two or three times larger than traditional temples of Kerala) well built and coated with copper sheet. Inside and around the shree-kovil is decorated with blue decorations; in the mandapa (raised platform) and nalambalam (temples around) several oil-lamps (nila-vukakku and thookku vilakku (hanging lamps) of many sizes are lighted in rows, pillars are dressed with red silk, by the eastern side of the mandapa stands the five feet high Nandikeshwara statue, devotees chant Shiva hymns in very soft voice, some of them chant ‘shambo-mahadeva, others chant ‘Ohm Namashivaya’ –the holy panchakshari invoking Lord Shiva, in short the whole atmosphere turns feels so unearthly. It is believed that any prayer said on ashtami day before this door will be attended by the lord.
The shree-kovil is two chambered; in inside chamber is called ‘garbha-griha- each has three sand-stone carved steps; the sights in the inside are still more appealing; a five foot high Shiva-linga is placed on a two feet high platform. The idol is tall enough to block the sight of Shiva-linga from one who stands outside the shreekovil. The idol is decorated with garlands made of koovalam-leaves (Aegle mermalos) and flowers of thumba (a local herb of basil group), valuable gems, decorated with navaratna all these add glitter to the idol.
Anna-dhanam maha dhanam (food is the greatest offer),
Free food is offered to all devotees in this temple everyday, this scheme is sponsored by devotees from around the places. The deity at this temple is also known as ‘anna-dhana prabhu’ as it is thought to be pleased to those who sponsor free food to the devotees. This free food scheme is known as ‘prathal’ in the temple lexicon.
A blood-less revolution (Vaikom Sathyagraha),
Vaikom temple is not just an ancient place of worship; it has carved its own position in the history of India as a temple which first became stage for the fight for equality among all citizens. In early times only Brahmins and people of the higher castes were allowed to enter in the temple compounds and orthodoxy were adamant to keep that obsolete practice neglecting all public opinions. In 1924 – 25 a great agitation occurred before the Vaikom temple for granting permission to all people without consideration of their caste. Mahatma Gandhi, Kelappaji and all people of relevance lined up for the cause; at last the temple authorities had to yield. In short Vaikom temple that established equality of all people before the deity; led all other temples to follow suit.
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